What Are Rip Tides / Rip Currents (Rips)?

We have received several e mails asking this question in relation to Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth) - but the same advice applies to all beaches where there are surf conditions. As there are no lifeguards on our beaches - it is important to have some knowledge of these currents if you are thinking of body boarding etc at Porth Neigwl and every year the emergency services are called to this beach after people have been caught out by them.

Rips can be found on any beach where there are waves and they are currents running out to sea that can easily take swimmers from shallow water out beyond their depth. Rip currents are particularly powerful in larger surf, but also occur when the surf is small. Waves bring water up the beach which has to escape somewhere so it takes the path of least resistance back out to see in between sandbars (an example of a sandbar is arrowed in the photo below).

Sandbars at Porth Neigwl

In bigger surf conditions, a series of waves flowing over the sandbars can exert so much pressure that it punches a whole through the sandbar or the sandbar collapses. This means there is a sudden rush of water back out to sea and this movement creates the rip tide, and is the chief reason it is so dangerous.
An example of such a rip occurred in Cornwall - see http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/cornwall/4134220.stm

Spotting a rip current
- Discoloured or brown water - caused by the sand being stirred up from the seabed.
- Foam on the water's surface.
- A break in the surf line where the waves are not as big.
- Debris floating out to sea.
- A rippled patch of sea, when the water around is generally calm.

Getting out of trouble
- The most important thing is to remain calm and try not to panic. If you do panic you will only make yourself more tired and reduce your ability to reach safety.
- Keep hold of your body board, surfboard or inflatable and don't fight the rip current.
- Think of it like a treadmill that cannot be turned off, which you need to step to the side of.
- Try and swim parallel to the beach and towards where the waves are breaking until you are out of the rip current, then swim toward the shore.
- If you are unable to swim out of the rip current, float or calmly tread water. When out of the current, swim towards shore.
- If you are still unable to reach shore, draw attention to yourself by waving your arm and yelling for help.
- Never try and swim directly towards the shore against the rip current.
- If you can stand up, wade instead of swimming.

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